Althoff Home Services Blog: Posts Tagged ‘Residential Services’

Heat Pump vs Furnace: Which Will Keep Your Chicago Home Warm?

Thursday, January 16th, 2020

Are you questioning the best way to heat your home? Heat pumps have been a hot topic of discussion lately for their environmental friendliness. While they’re a popular heat source in the southern U.S., can they handle the notoriously brutal Chicago winters like a standard gas furnace?

When it comes down to it, both heat pumps and furnaces will keep your house warm. The real question is, which heat source will better suit your individual needs? Generally, choosing between a heat pump and a furnace comes down to your type of home, your comfort level, your access to fuel, and your personal preferences.

What Is a Heat Pump?

When weighing your options between a heat pump and a furnace, understanding how heat pumps work will aid your decision-making process. Many Chicagoans are familiar with how furnaces work—a gas burner heats air flowing through the system and pushes the air through your house’s ductwork. Furnaces depend on a fuel source such as gas or propane to heat the air moving through the system.

On the other hand, heat pumps work similarly to air conditioners, but in reverse—they draw in heat from the air, water, or ground outside of your home and concentrate it to redistribute the warmth throughout your home. There are three common types of heat pumps:

  • Air-to-air. Transfers heat between the outside air and your house using air ducts.
  • Mini-split. Works similarly to an air-to-air system but doesn’t require ductwork.

When Choosing Between a Heat Pump and a Furnace, Consider Your Individual Needs

Even in the coldest conditions, there’s a relative amount of warmth that heat pumps can extract from the air. With modern technology, both types of heating systems can do an adequate job keeping your home warm, even in the most frigid conditions. To help make heat pumps more accessible to homeowners in the northern U.S., some heat pumps are equipped with a supplemental electric heating element. In the end, it comes down to the benefits you personally want to get from your home’s heating system.

Environmental Impact

With a gas-powered furnace, your dependence on fossil fuels leaves behind a pretty large environmental footprint. Heat pumps can heat your home without depending on fossil fuels to provide heat. Even dual-source systems that use electricity as a heat source when the temperature is too cold to adequately heat your home, your environmental impact is considerably smaller than employing a heat source that’s fully powered by electricity.

Cost

If you’re looking to save money in the long run, consider the price of electricity versus gas in your area. If electricity is more expensive per unit than gas, a heat pump will generally cost more than a gas furnace and vice versa. Additionally, gas furnaces tend to have longer lifespans and cheaper maintenance costs than heat pumps.

Access to a Fuel Source

If you’re building a new home in a rural area, you may not have easy access to a natural gas utility, or you may want to save some additional money by avoiding the service altogether. Since heat pumps use the environment around you to extract heat, you can install them just about anywhere.

Insulation

Do you live in an older home with poor insulation or a new home with the top-of-the-line stuff? How your home is insulated can greatly affect how a heat pump functions in your home. A gas furnace can power through just about anything. If your house is drafty with old windows and insulation, a heat pump could struggle to adequately maintain higher temperatures.

Choose the System That Works for You

When it comes down to the nuts and bolts, both gas furnaces and heat pumps will be able to heat your home no matter where you live. The final decision comes down to your personal preferences and what you plan to gain from your home’s heating system.

The heating experts at Althoff Industries can help you weigh the pros and cons of both systems and help you determine the type of system that will work best for your home. Contact us today to schedule your home heating consultation.

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Do Energy-Efficient Appliances Save Money?

Friday, December 20th, 2019

We’re always looking for new ways to save money without giving up the small luxuries we love. By switching to energy-efficient appliances, you could save hundreds of dollars per year.

Better yet, you’ll be keeping more money in your pocket, instead of paying it to the utility companies. That means more vacations and less painful bills and this switch will have minimal impact on your life.

Not only are energy-efficient appliances good for your wallet, they’re also beneficial for the environment as well. You’ll sleep easier knowing you’re making smart environmental and financial decisions.

Energy Star Appliances and SEER Ratings

If you’ve purchased an appliance in the past 25 years, you’re probably familiar with the Energy Star label. Energy Star is a U.S. Environmental Protection Agency voluntary program that helps businesses and individuals save money and protect our climate through superior energy efficiency.

According to the Energy Star website, “Since 1992, Energy Star and its partners helped save American families and businesses nearly 4 trillion kilowatt-hours of electricity and achieve over 3 billion metric tons of greenhouse gas reductions, equivalent to the annual emissions of over 600 million cars. In 2017 alone, Energy Star and its partners helped Americans avoid $30 billion in energy costs.”

SEER stands for “Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio,” and is the efficiency rating of an HVAC system, which measures the efficiency of specific appliances in your home. The SEER rating of an appliance—your AC unit, refrigerator, or your heating system—is based on a number of factors.

It is also important to note that the higher the SEER rating, the more energy-efficient the appliance will be.

Energy-Efficient Appliances Use Less Energy and Save You Money

Customers often wonder how they can save money by dropping money on new energy-efficient appliances when their older models seem to be functioning just fine.

Energy-efficient appliances can help you save money by using less energy and resources such as electricity, gas, and water.

Remember that your gas, water, and electricity bills aren’t set in stone. Utility companies charge based on the amount you consume every month.

Energy-efficient appliances use fewer resources than older appliances to complete the same task, which lowers your monthly utility costs.

Dryers

Dryers generally consume the most energy of any appliance. According to the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC), a typical household dryer consumes as much energy per year as an energy-efficient refrigerator, washing machine, and dishwasher combined. If you have an older model, that number could be even higher.

Energy Star certified dryers use 20% less electricity than a conventional model, which will save you a significant amount of money on your energy bills over time.

Washing Machines

Pair that energy-efficient dryer with an energy-efficient washing machine, you’ll enjoy even bigger savings on your monthly bills.

An Energy Star certified washing machine uses about 25% less energy and 33% less water than regular washers, according to Energy Star.

Energy Star also estimated that there are 74 million top-loading washers and 24 million front-loading washers—26 million of which are at least 10 years old—still in use across the country and these inefficient washers cost consumers about $4.7 billion each year in energy and water.

Energy-efficient front-loading clothes washers also require less laundry detergent than top-loading washers, so you save more money from week to week!

Refrigerators

There have been significant advances in the technology used in refrigerators over the last decade or so, which means that outdated refrigerators are using a ton of extra energy in many homes to this day.

The Energy Star certified refrigerators available today are around 10% more energy-efficient than models that meet the federal minimum energy standards.

If you have an older refrigerator, you can save even more on your energy bills by upgrading to a more efficient option. Energy Star certified refrigerators use up to 40% less energy than the conventional models sold in 2001.

Energy-Efficient HVAC Systems

By upgrading the HVAC system in your home, you will likely see a significant return on your investment over time.

Now, it may seem like a lot of cash upfront, but if you keep your new system well-maintained you will definitely see the savings in the long term.

According to the DOE, the most efficient central AC systems today use 30% to 50% less energy than those built in the mid-1970s. Even when a 10-year-old unit is replaced, the new air conditioner can cut cooling costs by anywhere from 20% to 40%.

In addition to that, heating your home actually costs you the most money, making up about 42% of your utility bill according to energy.gov. An outdated system with a low SEER rating is likely costing you a lot more monthly than you would like.

We have come really far when it comes to the technology available in modern HVAC systems in the last 20+ years. Talk to an expert and find out which HVAC system is right for your home so you can start saving.

Other examples of energy-efficient appliances available to consumers include:

  • Cooking appliances
  • Dishwashers
  • Toilets
  • Water heaters

Are You Considering Making Energy-Efficient Improvements to Your Home?

Maybe you are ready to take a step towards a more energy-efficient home and cost savings or you’re already there and your energy-efficient HVAC system needs maintenance. No matter what your case is, the experts at Althoff Industries can help with your energy-efficient appliance needs.

We’ve been serving the Chicago area for over 60 years, so we’ve done our fair share of energy-efficient home improvements. Contact us at 815-455-7000 and schedule your appointment today!

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Things You Should Never Put Down Your Garbage Dispo

Thursday, December 19th, 2019

A garbage disposal can make cleaning up after meals a whole lot easier. Instead of constantly unblocking your drain or having to worry about sneaky pieces of food making their way into your pipes, a garbage disposal does the hard work for you—it grinds up food waste, allowing scraps to easily flow through your pipes and out to the sewer.

More waste that goes out to the sewer means less waste that’s stinking up your trash can.

It’s common knowledge not to put things like cooking utensils, plasticware and bottle caps down the garbage disposal, but did you know that there’s a long list of things you should never put down your garbage disposal?

We have a list of food items that can cause havoc on your disposal and plumbing below, but first, let’s talk about how garbage disposals work.

How Does a Garbage Disposal Work?

A big misconception is that garbage disposals work like blenders—that the blades are spinning around, chopping up food into little pieces. However, if you ever take a peek inside of a garbage disposal, you’ll notice that’s not exactly how they work.

Instead, your garbage disposal relies on heavy metal lugs that have been mounted on a spinning plate.

As the lugs spin, the garbage disposal creates centrifugal force, grinding the food particles against a grind ring until they’re essentially liquefied. Once they’ve been ground to bits, water helps flush out the particles and carry the waste down the drain.

Okay, now that you know how a garbage disposal works, here is a list of things you should never put through it.

1. Fats, Oils and Grease

When you’re cooking, heat causes fat, oil and grease to liquify.

Once removed from the heat, these substances begin hardening as they cool.

Unfortunately, your garbage disposal can’t do anything to break down fats, oils and greases when you dump them into the drain.

These substances instead slide through the machine and into your pipes. As they travel down your pipes, they cool and eventually solidify, sticking to the sides of the pipes.

This can cause plumbing problems, including slow-moving drains and blockages.

2. Coffee Grounds

Your garbage disposal won’t have any trouble processing coffee grounds. However, your plumbing might, especially in an older home.

As coffee grounds pass through your drains, they tend to clump together and create clogs and your garbage disposal won’t be able to do anything else to help break down the coffee grounds. They’ll clump together in the pipes no matter how big or small.

3. Bones

Remember, your garbage disposal isn’t a tiny ninja that can pulverize whatever you throw down the drain. Typically, bones are too large and too hard to be broken up by the average garbage disposal.

Most likely, the bones will spin around while making a crazy noise in the garbage disposal forever and never make it down the drain.

It’s best to toss them in the trash when you’re cleaning up after a meal.

4. Fruit Pits

Pieces of leftover fruit shouldn’t be a problem for your garbage disposal, but it’s better to chuck the pits in the garbage.

Generally, fruit pits are too large and too hard to be broken up by the average garbage disposal.

More than likely, the pit will just rattle around inside the disposal and potentially damage the lugs inside preventing them from properly breaking up food particles.

5. Pasta, Rice and Oatmeal

In small quantities, these foods shouldn’t be too much trouble for your garbage disposal. They’ll simply get spun to small particles and flow down the drain.

The problem with these foods occurs when you dump large quantities into the garbage disposal or let them sit in the garbage disposal for an extended time. Pasta, rice and oatmeal absorb water, which can turn into a gummy, sticky mess. The buildup can cause the lugs to seize inside of your garbage disposal and prevent it from spinning.

6. Corn Husks, Potato Peels and Fibrous Vegetables

High angle view of dirty stainless steel kitchen sink with vegetable and fruit peels

Similar to pasta or oatmeal, small pieces of these vegetables should be ok for your garbage disposal to process.

However, in larger quantities, the fibers in peels and vegetables like celery and some squashes can get tangled up in the garbage disposal, preventing it from spinning around.

You’re better off composting these items instead of trying to wash them down the drain—your pipes and the environment will thank you.

Are You Having Garbage Disposal Trouble?

Whether you’re having trouble with your existing garbage disposal or if you’re looking to add one to your kitchen, Althoff Industries can help.

Our experts are here to help with your plumbing maintenance, repair and installation needs. Give us a call at 815-345-2778 to schedule an estimate today.

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What To Do If Your Toilet Overflows?

Monday, November 4th, 2019

As a homeowner, or even as a renter, hearing water unexpectedly splashing on the floor in the bathroom when it’s vacant can make your heart skip a beat.

Water damage can be an expensive, unpleasant burden to handle. Unfortunately, you’ll probably have to deal with a faulty, overflowing toilet at some point in your life. Do you know what to do when the water from the toilet starts flooding your bathroom?

Thankfully, most overflowing toilet problems can be quick and inexpensive to repair when you have some basic plumbing know-how.

Here, we’ll illustrate what to do when your toilet starts overflowing and how you can get water flowing down the drain again. When in doubt, remember the plumbing experts at Althoff Industries are only a phone call away.

1. Shut off the Water

Before you can figure out why your toilet is overflowing, you need to stop the flow of water to your toilet to prevent excessive water damage.

Most toilets have a water shut-off valve located close to the wall between the tank and the floor.

Turn the valve handle clockwise until it’s fully tightened, and you no longer hear water flowing.

This should stop water from flowing out of the toilet and limit the amount of cleanup and water damage you have.

If you’re unable to turn off the water at the toilet’s shut-off valve, you can remove the lid from the toilet tank and manually lift the float. When the float reaches a certain height, the toilet knows to stop filling the tank with water.

Oftentimes, the float gets stuck and the toilet overflows with water if it’s unable to drain properly.

If you still can’t stop water from flowing out of your toilet, you can shut off the flow of water to your entire house.

Depending on the age of your home and where you live, the water shutoff valve should be located near your water heater, or if you are connected to a municipal city water supply, by the street. This should prevent any additional water from flowing to your home.

If you’ve turned off the toilet water supply, adjusted the tank float and turned off the main water supply, and the toilet is still overflowing, you may be experiencing a sewer line backup. For sewer line backup emergencies, contact a professional immediately.

2. Figure Out Why the Toilet Isn’t Draining

The likely culprit for an overflowing toilet is a clogged drain. What’s the easiest and most effective way to unclog a toilet drain? A flange plunger.

In comparison to standard flat-based sink plungers, flange plungers have an extra rubber ridge that fits inside of a toilet drain. This creates more suction during the plunging process and helps you unclog the drain with ease.

First, remove some of the water from the toilet. This will ensure you make less of a mess during the plunging process.

Place the flange inside the toilet drain and firmly press the cup against the drain to create a strong seal. Forcefully push the plunger towards the drain and pull it back up again five times, releasing the seal on the final pull. Repeat this motion until you dislodge the clog and the toilet starts to drain.

3. What if a Plunger Doesn’t Work?

If you’ve worn your arms out trying to clear the drain using a flange plunger, a toilet snake or closet auger may be the solution you need. These manageable, hand-powered tools are easy to use, affordable and available at any local hardware store.

Toilet snakes can clear drains by breaking up the clog, allowing it to pass through the sewer lines. Simply insert the coiled end of the snake into the opening and keep feeding it down the drain until you feel it stop at the clog.

Crank the handle until you feel the clog begin to break up and see water begin to drain. You may need to reverse the snake and crank it multiple times if the clog is particularly tough.

4. Remember to Clean Thoroughly

If your toilet is overflowing, it’s probably carrying harmful, disease-carrying bacteria everywhere the water touches. When you finally get your toilet flowing again, be sure to remove any standing water, completely dry out cabinets and thoroughly sanitize every surface the water touched.

When all Else Fails, Hand It off to Althoff

Our experienced plumbing experts can get even the most stubborn toilets flowing properly again. We understand how unpleasant plumbing troubles can be—that’s why we’re available to help 24/7. Give us a call at 815-345-2778 to schedule your appointment today.

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Fall Home Maintenance Checklist: Preparing for Cold Chicago Winters

Tuesday, October 29th, 2019

With winter fast approaching, it won’t be long until the cold weather and low temperatures are here to stay. With this in mind, it’s important to ensure your home is fully winterized. To keep your home running and reduce the amount you have to spend on repairs when the snow hits and the wind chill drops, take a look at our fall homeowner checklist.

1. Clean Your Gutters

Increasing precipitation will put your gutters to the test, so make sure they’re not clogged up with leaves and debris. If gutters remain clogged it can cause water to overflow and fall along the foundation of the building. Also, if the foundation is wet and then freezes, this can cause significant heaving and cracks.

2. Check Your Driveway

Even minor cracks in your driveway can cause major problems for your home. When water seeps into the driveway, it will gradually become uneven and less stable. If you don’t address the issue, this water could move to the foundation of your home and require costly repairs. With a little maintenance, you can prevent the need for these repairs and save yourself from some major headaches in the future.

3. Add Weather-Stripping to Your Home

If your home is full of drafts, you’ll find your energy bills during the winter will skyrocket. Weather-stripping is a quick and easy way to tackle drafts, and it’s something you can do yourself. Check every door and window for drafts and, if you find any, add weather-stripping tape to the affected area. This will prevent cold air from entering the property and minimize the amount of heat which escapes. As a result, you’ll be able to keep your home warm and cozy without spending a fortune on energy bills.

4. Make Sure All Exterior Wood Trim Is Properly Sealed

The wood trim around your exterior doors and windows is just a one-inch-thick pine board that can rot very quickly if not protected.

It’s important to keep exterior wood from rotting by keeping it properly painted and caulked. This is a prevention job most people can do themselves. Once the wood rots, however, you will likely have to call in a carpentry expert to replace the damaged areas. This could potentially cost you a lot of money.

5. Prep Your Lawn

First, make sure the soil around your foundation hasn’t settled. This can create areas for water to pool at your foundation. If you find a spot that seems as if it could cause pooling, simply fill it in with some soil.

Secondly, the cold temperatures will impact the grass but adding fertilizer can prevent this from happening. With dedicated grass protection products also available, you can ensure your lawn remains green throughout the winter months.

6. Arrange Boiler or Furnace Maintenance

You absolutely do not want to be without heat in the wintertime, so have an expert come out and check that everything is ready to go before things get really chilly. Faulty furnaces or boilers can be dangerous, so having yours checked will provide peace of mind and pretty much eliminate any risks.

When your boiler or furnace is working optimally and your air filter is changed or cleaned, you’ll spend far less on your energy bills, have better air quality and have complete control over your heating and AC systems.

7. Bring Outdoor Furniture Inside

Although outdoor furniture is designed to withstand some rain and extremely warm temperatures, this doesn’t necessarily mean it does well in sub-zero temperatures and snowstorms. Bring your outdoor furniture inside and make sure it’s stored at an appropriate temperature until you’ll be using it again. If you really don’t have the space to keep it indoors, you can try to use a waterproof furniture cover to prevent most of the damage.

8. Test Winter-Specific Equipment

If you own equipment or tools which you only use in the winter, you’ll want to check that it’s still working. There’s no use finding out your snow blower or snow plow doesn’t work in the depths of winter, so take the time to try it out now. Also, get the necessary maintenance work and repairs done on your equipment now, so you know it will be working when you actually need to use it.

9. Shut Off Exterior Faucets

If you leave exterior faucets open throughout the winter, there’s a good chance your pipes will freeze – which is a real headache. To prevent this from happening, remove any accessories, such as hoses, and shut off the exterior faucets completely. Rectifying freezing pipes can be time-consuming but shutting off the faucets doesn’t take long and will keep your pipework in excellent working condition.

10. Have Your Humidifier Serviced

Too little humidity is very common in the winter once the heat gets turned on, drying out the air and sometimes resulting in chapped lips, bloody noses and breathing issues. You don’t want too little humidity but you also don’t want too much humidity in your home.

A warm, functional whole-home humidifier can help easily keep all of the rooms in your house comfortable. You will need to make sure you change your humidifier pad/filter and that there are no leaks. If you do have a whole-home humidifier, you should definitely consider having a team of professionals come in to ensure that your system is in perfect working condition.

Keep Your Home Cozy and Warm This Winter

The experts at Althoff Industries can help you make sure that your home’s heating system is running perfectly before the weather hits the single digits. Don’t get stuck out in the cold! Give us a call at 815-900-5002, and schedule your winter maintenance appointment today.

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Does a Low-Flow Toilet Really Save Money?

Monday, September 16th, 2019

If you’re a homeowner with older toilets, you could be flushing your hard-earned money down the drain. Regular-flow toilets can use up to seven gallons of water per flush. In comparison, a low-flow toilet is required to use 1.6 gallons of water or less per flush.

When you start doing the math, you can see that with every flush, a few cents are added to your water bill. These cents can quickly turn into dollars. By limiting the amount of water you use per flush, it’s possible to drastically reduce your water bill.

By replacing old, inefficient toilets with WaterSense labeled models, the average family can reduce water used for toilets by 20 to 60 percent. They could also save more than $110 per year in water costs, and $2,200 over the lifetime of the toilets, according to the EPA.

Can your home and wallet benefit from a low-flow toilet upgrade? We’ll help you do the math.

What Is a Low-Flow Toilet?

In 1992, the Energy Policy Act mandated that all new toilets sold in the U.S. must be limited to 1.6 gallons of water per flush or less. With these new restrictions aimed at environmental conservation, low-flow toilets became mainstream.

Modern low-flow toilets employ one of two methods to remove waste from your home:

  • Gravity. When you remove the flapper from the tank drain, gravity forces water out of the tank and carries away waste from the toilet bowl.
  • Pressure-Assisted. These toilets compress a pocket of air, which then accelerates the water to forcefully clear waste from the bowl when you flush.

High-efficiency toilets are available to help increase your cost savings even further. These toilets have multiple flush controls that differentiate between removing liquid and solid waste.

Liquid waste can be flushed using as few as 0.8 gallons of water, whereas solid waste usually requires the maximum 1.6 gallons per flush.

When averaged out, your water usage will most likely fall well below the standard 1.6 gallons per flush, which is typical of standard low-flow toilets.

How Much Money Can a Low-Flow Toilet Save?

The short answer to “Does a low-flow toilet really save money?” is “yes.” However, the actual dollar amount is more difficult to calculate. Depending on your usage, you may be able to offset the cost of a new low-flow toilet in a matter of months, but it may take years.

The amount of money you can expect to save by upgrading to a low-flow toilet depends on multiple variables, including:

  • Age. If you’re upgrading from a pre-1992 water waster that drains seven gallons per flush, you’re going to see substantial savings on your water bill immediately. If you’re upgrading from a low-flow toilet to a high-efficiency toilet, your monetary savings will add up more gradually throughout the toilet’s lifetime.
  • Number of toilets in the home. The more toilets you have, the more they’ll cost to replace. If you’re replacing multiple regular toilets with low-flow models, you’re probably going to see greater overall savings on your water bill.
  • Household size. Your initial water bill savings will be greater when you’re used to seeing more flushes. Single-person households will see the savings add up over time, whereas large families should notice significant cost savings immediately.
  • Type of water. Homeowners who are connected to municipal infrastructure and pay a water bill will notice greater initial savings than homeowners with private wells. However, newer low-flow toilets will put less strain on your well equipment and supply.

Additional Savings Potential

In addition to ongoing monetary savings, low-flow toilets can provide environmental benefits and potentially, depending on your city or municipality, one-time rebates.

With a maximum of 1.6 gallons per flush, you’ll be conserving water and have a smaller environmental footprint. According to Mother Earth News, low-flow toilets now save the average U.S. household (2.64 people) about 25 gallons of water per day.

As a bonus, many cities and municipalities offer rebates or tax incentives for replacing old regular toilets with new low-flow or high-efficiency toilets. Contact your local public works department to learn more.

Are You Interested in Saving Money by Replacing Your Toilet With a Low-Flow Toilet?

We get it, replacing your toilet isn’t the most fun job in the world. Leave it to the experts at Althoff Industries. We can help you choose the right low-flow or high-efficiency toilet for your home. We can even install it for you, so you don’t have to get your hands dirty. Give us a call today at (815) 455-7000.

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Why Does My A/C Have Ice on It in the Summer?

Thursday, September 5th, 2019

There’s nothing that’ll get you more steamed than coming home to a hot house in the summer. Imagine your surprise when you go to inspect your air conditioner, and it’s covered in ice! Each summer, this is one of the most common calls we get at Althoff Industries.

Luckily, an icy air conditioner is easy to diagnose and repair. While it may seem like you’ll have an expensive repair bill coming your way, oftentimes you simply need to make a few simple changes to prevent your air conditioner from icing over. In this article, we’ll identify the causes of most frozen air conditioners, the repair process and how to prevent your air conditioner from freezing in the future.

Warning: If you notice ice building up on your air conditioner, turn off the unit immediately. To prevent additional damage from occurring, do not turn on the air conditioner until the ice has melted and you have located the cause. If you’re unsure of the issue causing your air conditioner to freeze, contact us to schedule an appointment.

Reduced Air Flow

One of the common culprits we discover when investigating frozen air conditioners is reduced air flow. Usually, this is one of the first issues we look for, since it’s one of the easiest to correct and cheaper for homeowners to repair. Reduced air flow could be caused by any of the following:

  • Dirty air filter. It’s important to inspect and replace your system’s air filter regularly. It’s a relatively inexpensive home ownership task, but you can end up with a hefty repair bill if you don’t keep up with the maintenance. When you have a dirty air filter, your system has to work extra hard to move the air through your home. This causes your air conditioner to work overtime, which may lead to ice buildup on the compressor, among other issues.
  • Too many closed air registers. You might think you’re doing yourself a favor by closing air registers and saving yourself a few dollars on your summer cooling bill. Unfortunately, when you close too many registers, you reduce the amount of airflow below the amount required to optimally run your home’s cooling system, which can cause the condenser to freeze. Make sure at least 75% of your air registers are open at all times.
  • Damaged air ducts. Depending on where they’re located, in a wall, basement or even closet, your system air ducts can take a beating when you’re moving heavy equipment or doing home repairs. If you end up damaging a duct, you can decrease the airflow.
  • Decreased fan speed. Over time, your system can get worn down, and your fan speed can decrease. On the other hand, your system’s fan speed may not have been set fast enough to begin with. If you’ve tried all other air flow repair methods without any luck, a technician can help you determine if the fan speed is freezing your air conditioner.

Faulty Thermostat

If your system is having trouble regulating the temperature, you waste money, energy, and odds are, your air conditioner is freezing over. When your system can’t properly regulate temperature, it’s running constantly, even when it’s cold out at night. As your condenser works overtime, the coils can build up condensation and eventually freeze over. If you notice your system is running even when it’s cool outside, your thermostat could be the culprit. A professional can help you test your thermostat and pinpoint the issue.

Drainage Problems

In addition to keeping your house cool, your air conditioner extracts humidity from the air to make your home’s air more comfortable. This excess moisture needs somewhere to go if it’s not in the air. Your air conditioning system should have a drainage pipe attached that carries moisture away from the unit. If this pipe becomes blocked, the water can get stuck in the unit and freeze. Ensure your system drain is clear and removing moisture efficiently.

Similar drainage problems can occur if you have a window unit that’s freezing up. To drain properly, window unit air conditioners must be tilted at a slight angle out of the window to allow water to drain. If your window unit is freezing up, ensure the air conditioner is tilted according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, and check that no debris are blocking the drainage hole. 

Low Refrigerant

You might have never have guessed, but having low refrigerant can actually make your evaporator coil freeze. Seems weird, right? If you don’t have the proper amount of refrigerant in your A/C system, it has to work harder to cool your home. When your unit is working too hard, icing is likely to occur. Typically, low refrigerant is a sign of a leak in the system. You can usually identify a leak by listening for a hissing or gurgling sound coming from the condenser. If you suspect a leak, it’s time to call a professional to help repair the leak and recharge the system with refrigerant.

Is Your Air Conditioner Putting a Freeze on Your Summer Fun?

The experts at Althoff Industries can help you identify why your air conditioner is freezing and repair the issue. Don’t let a frozen air conditioner prevent you from staying cool during the summer, give us a call at 815-900-5002, and schedule your appointment today!

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My A/C Is Running but Not Blowing Cold Air

Monday, July 1st, 2019

Summer is in full swing and, on really hot days, all you want to do when you get home from a long day is to enjoy some cool air conditioning. Nothing kills this excitement more in the warm summer months than entering your home only to realize that your A/C is not blowing cold air. Unfortunately, an A/C is not fail-proof and they can quit blowing cool air for a variety of reasons. We have listed some of these reasons below so you can have an idea of why your A/C quit working and how you can resolve the issue.

Reasons Why Your A/C is Running but Not Blowing Cold Air

1. Your Thermostat Is Set Incorrectly

Sometimes an A/C doesn’t blow cold air simply because your thermostat settings need to be adjusted. Luckily, this is a pretty easy issue to resolve on your own. Some people think that leaving their A/C running all day is the best way to keep their home cool, but it is actually best to set your fan to AUTO, this will ensure that your air conditioner is running only when it is actually cooling the air. Changing this setting will help save money on energy bills, ensure that you don’t wear out your A/C too quickly, and keep your home cool.

2. Your Air Filter Is Dirty

Having a dirty air filter can inhibit airflow which could definitely be a reason that your A/C isn’t blowing cool air. Take out your air filter and see if there is any debris. If you do notice that the air filter is dirty, swap it out for a new one and get in the habit of changing it out every month.

A great way to ensure that your air filter is clean and your A/C works all summer long, we suggest having professional regularly scheduled maintenance.

3. Your Outside Unit Is Dirty

In the same vein as point number two, having an outside unit that is covered in dirt, dust, and other debris could also be inhibiting cool air from making its way into your home.

Air conditioners work when the inside unit (called an evaporator) absorbs heat from the air and then transfers that heat to the outside unit (called the condenser). The condenser can’t properly dissipate heat if it’s dirty or crowded with debris.

You can resolve this issue by spraying the outside unit with a garden hose on a gentle setting and removing weeds and overgrowth around the unit.

4. Refrigerant Leak

Refrigerant is the liquid that absorbs the heat from the air. When you don’t have enough refrigerant, your A/C can’t absorb enough heat to cool the air. Refrigerant leaks are fairly common and can definitely be the reason why your A/C isn’t blowing cold air.

Signs you have a refrigerant leak include:

  1. Ice buildup on the outside unit and line
  2. Bubbling or hissing noises
  3. Your A/C doesn’t cool the home on hot days but works fine on cool days and at night

If you see these signs, turn off your A/C immediately and call a professional. Refrigerant chemicals are very dangerous and need to be handled by the experts.

5. Air Duct Leaks

Over time, the air ducts that move air conditioning through your home may become loose or their seal may be compromised. This means that air is escaping erratically which makes it hard to keep your home at the temperature you want. You will need to have a professional come out and evaluate your air ducts to ensure that they are not leaking cool air and make repairs as needed.

6. A Bad Compressor

The compressor is one of the most important parts of the A/C system and pushes the refrigerant through the unit. If your compressor isn’t working properly, your A/C cannot work. Compressors need to be evaluated by a professional and replaced if they appear worn out or defective. Unfortunately, compressors are expensive unless you have a warranty. Chances are if your compressor is bad, you’ll probably need to replace an entire outside unit.

7. Dirty Evaporator Coils

An evaporator coil is the part of the A/C system where the refrigerant absorbs heat. Over time, the evaporator coils get dirty and affect the performance of your A/C and make it harder to remove warm air.

Dirty evaporator coils can lead to your A/C overheating and potentially shutting off completely. Evaporator coils should be evaluated and cleaned by a professional to ensure that they are in good condition.

Schedule an Appointment and Stay Cool All Summer Long

If your A/C is not blowing cold air, contact our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians. They can help troubleshoot the problem so you can cool down and relax again. Contact us at 815-455-7000 to schedule.

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5 Air Conditioning Noises and Their Causes

Thursday, June 13th, 2019

Summertime—it’s sunshine, warm breezes, barbecues and the gentle hum of air conditioners keeping houses cool throughout the neighborhood. In a split second, that gentle hum can turn into an unnerving hissing, banging or screeching. While all air conditioners make noise, it’s important to be able to recognize which noises are normal, and which noises require a professional inspection.

1. Hissing

Uh oh! More than likely, you’ve sprung a leak. Usually, a hissing sound indicates that your air conditioner is leaking refrigerant. In some cases, there’s a small opening in one of the refrigerant lines. In others, there may be an internal valve leak.

If the hissing is really loud and accompanied by squealing or screeching from the compressor, you need to turn off your air conditioner immediately. This indicates that there is too much pressure in the compressor, which could lead to a costly repair bill if you don’t act soon.

2. Screeching

One of the most startling noises is generally one of the easiest to diagnose. In newer direct-drive A/C units, you can trace a screeching noise to a shot bearing in the fan motor. Usually, you’ll have to replace the fan motor to get the noise to stop. In older A/C units, the screech could be coming from the belt that connects the motor to the blower. Belts gradually wear down, and you need to replace them from time to time.

3. Banging

A loud banging or rattling can mean that there’s a loose part somewhere in your A/C unit. Before more damage occurs, you’ll want to shut of the air conditioner as soon as you hear the noise. Is the noise louder outside of your house or inside of it? If it’s outside, one of the fan blades could have come loose in the compressor. If the noise is louder inside, your blower fan might be causing the racket.

4. Clicking

Hearing a clicking sound when the air conditioner kicks on is common and completely normal. That click is how your thermostat communicates with the unit. However, when it’s on, your A/C shouldn’t be ticking like a clock.

Like banging noises, clicking often comes from a loose or damaged part that’s hitting against something that it normally wouldn’t. An occasional clicking noise could indicate that there’s something stuck in one of the airways. On the other hand, if the clicking is constantly coming from your thermostat, there could be an issue with the circuit board.

5. Buzzing

A couple of issues could make your air conditioning unit buzz, like a swarm of hornets building a nest in your outside unit. If you can rule out pests, the buzzing could be coming from loose parts rubbing together, or your air conditioner might have frozen up. If you see a buildup of frost and ice on the unit, a professional can help you determine the cause. Finally, listen to hear if the buzzing sound is coming from the unit’s power source. The A/C could be overloading your circuit panel, which will require a professional evaluation.

If your air conditioner is making a noise that it shouldn’t, call Althoff.

Ignoring the problem could cause damage to your unit that then requires more extensive repairs. Have one of our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians check out the sound now and get peace of mind. Contact us at 800-225-2443 to schedule.

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Electrical Emergency Service: Common Code Violations

Friday, May 3rd, 2019

It’s a homeowner’s worst nightmare. You flip on a light switch and nothing happens. You check an outlet, also no power. Finally, you head to the breaker box to see if anything needs to be reset. If that doesn’t work, then you’re calling an electrician and spending the rest of the day in the dark ages until your power is back up and running.

Do you know what’s more frustrating? When the electrician arrives and points out a simple code violation, that if corrected, would’ve saved you the hassle of making a phone call. It’s important, especially if you live in an older home, to be aware of common electrical code violations. Down the road, an inspection can save you from a hefty repair bill or even better, save your home and family from an electrical fire. Here, we’ve illustrated a few common electrical code violations to look for in your home.

electrical fire in outlet

New Lights and Old Wiring Don’t Mix

Back in the day, houses weren’t constructed to handle today’s modern, high wattage light fixtures and bulbs. When you put a high-powered bulb in a fixture that’s only able to handle 60 watts, you’re putting yourself in a dangerous situation. Higher wattage light bulbs create a lot of heat. Over time, that heat can melt the light socket and the insulation around the wires. Without proper insulation and a melted light socket, a fire can spark at any moment. In fact, this is one of the most common causes of electrical fires. It’s also one of the easiest to prevent. Make sure you inspect the light fixture to determine the maximum wattage bulb allowed. When in doubt, always choose a less powerful bulb.

Beware of Knob and Tube Wiring

Anyone who’s familiar with home renovation television shows will spot this electrical issue right away. It’s one of the most common budget-destroying home renovation finds next to asbestos or load bearing beams. Knob and tube was the first type of electrical wiring used in homes built before the 1940’s. We’ve learned a lot since then, and by today’s standards, knob and tube wiring is extremely unsafe. What makes knob and tube wiring so scary is that there’s no ground wire to protect your house from surges and other faults. Instead, the wiring could spark and set your whole house ablaze. If you’re down in your basement and notice old ceramic knob and tube wiring, it’s time to give your house an upgrade before you lose everything you own in a house fire.

Recessed Lighting Deserves a Second Look

Recessed lighting can give rooms a clean, modern look. It can also be a dangerous fire hazard if not installed properly. To be safe, non-IC-rated lights need to be at least three inches away from insulation. If not, the lights can overheat. Non-IC-rated recessed lights can produce a lot of heat, enough heat to ignite insulation that’s too close. If you’re unsure of the type of recessed lighting you have, it’s important that you have a professional to inspect the light and insulation to make sure you’re not at risk of sparking a house fire.

Look Out for Illegal Splicing

This electrical issue might be a bit more difficult for the average homeowner to identify without the help of an expert. Electricians use a splice to connect two or more wires together. In order to be up to code and safe, electricians need to run the wires into a junction box, make a splice with wire nuts and cover the junction box with a cover plate. Oftentimes, DIY homeowners think they can do their own electrical work. Not only is an illegal splice a dangerous fire hazard, but it can be a sign that there are more serious electrical issues in the house. If you suspect an illegal splice in your house, it’s a clear sign you’ll need a more thorough inspection.

Overcrowding Wires Happens Too Often

Sometimes, DIY-ers and inexperienced electricians get lazy. When roughing in electrical wiring, they try to run too many wires through a ⅞ hole. The maximum number of wires allowed through a ⅞ hole is three. When an electrician runs too many wires through a hole, they run the risk of burning. Burning occurs when wires rub together and the insulation wears down. With exposed wiring behind your wall, without you knowing, you run the risk of a fire sparking at any time.

Do You Think You Have An Electrical Emergency?

Have you noticed lights flickering in your home? Outlets not working? Maybe you’ve noticed one of the issues we pointed out on this list. If you think you have an electrical emergency on your hands, give Althoff Industries a call at 815-455-7000 to schedule an appointment today.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information.

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