Althoff Home Services Blog: Posts Tagged ‘Residential HVAC’

Fall Home Maintenance Checklist: Preparing for Cold Chicago Winters

Tuesday, October 29th, 2019

With winter fast approaching, it won’t be long until the cold weather and low temperatures are here to stay. With this in mind, it’s important to ensure your home is fully winterized. To keep your home running and reduce the amount you have to spend on repairs when the snow hits and the wind chill drops, take a look at our fall homeowner checklist.

1. Clean Your Gutters

Increasing precipitation will put your gutters to the test, so make sure they’re not clogged up with leaves and debris. If gutters remain clogged it can cause water to overflow and fall along the foundation of the building. Also, if the foundation is wet and then freezes, this can cause significant heaving and cracks.

2. Check Your Driveway

Even minor cracks in your driveway can cause major problems for your home. When water seeps into the driveway, it will gradually become uneven and less stable. If you don’t address the issue, this water could move to the foundation of your home and require costly repairs. With a little maintenance, you can prevent the need for these repairs and save yourself from some major headaches in the future.

3. Add Weather-Stripping to Your Home

If your home is full of drafts, you’ll find your energy bills during the winter will skyrocket. Weather-stripping is a quick and easy way to tackle drafts, and it’s something you can do yourself. Check every door and window for drafts and, if you find any, add weather-stripping tape to the affected area. This will prevent cold air from entering the property and minimize the amount of heat which escapes. As a result, you’ll be able to keep your home warm and cozy without spending a fortune on energy bills.

4. Make Sure All Exterior Wood Trim Is Properly Sealed

The wood trim around your exterior doors and windows is just a one-inch-thick pine board that can rot very quickly if not protected.

It’s important to keep exterior wood from rotting by keeping it properly painted and caulked. This is a prevention job most people can do themselves. Once the wood rots, however, you will likely have to call in a carpentry expert to replace the damaged areas. This could potentially cost you a lot of money.

5. Prep Your Lawn

First, make sure the soil around your foundation hasn’t settled. This can create areas for water to pool at your foundation. If you find a spot that seems as if it could cause pooling, simply fill it in with some soil.

Secondly, the cold temperatures will impact the grass but adding fertilizer can prevent this from happening. With dedicated grass protection products also available, you can ensure your lawn remains green throughout the winter months.

6. Arrange Boiler or Furnace Maintenance

You absolutely do not want to be without heat in the wintertime, so have an expert come out and check that everything is ready to go before things get really chilly. Faulty furnaces or boilers can be dangerous, so having yours checked will provide peace of mind and pretty much eliminate any risks.

When your boiler or furnace is working optimally and your air filter is changed or cleaned, you’ll spend far less on your energy bills, have better air quality and have complete control over your heating and AC systems.

7. Bring Outdoor Furniture Inside

Although outdoor furniture is designed to withstand some rain and extremely warm temperatures, this doesn’t necessarily mean it does well in sub-zero temperatures and snowstorms. Bring your outdoor furniture inside and make sure it’s stored at an appropriate temperature until you’ll be using it again. If you really don’t have the space to keep it indoors, you can try to use a waterproof furniture cover to prevent most of the damage.

8. Test Winter-Specific Equipment

If you own equipment or tools which you only use in the winter, you’ll want to check that it’s still working. There’s no use finding out your snow blower or snow plow doesn’t work in the depths of winter, so take the time to try it out now. Also, get the necessary maintenance work and repairs done on your equipment now, so you know it will be working when you actually need to use it.

9. Shut Off Exterior Faucets

If you leave exterior faucets open throughout the winter, there’s a good chance your pipes will freeze – which is a real headache. To prevent this from happening, remove any accessories, such as hoses, and shut off the exterior faucets completely. Rectifying freezing pipes can be time-consuming but shutting off the faucets doesn’t take long and will keep your pipework in excellent working condition.

10. Have Your Humidifier Serviced

Too little humidity is very common in the winter once the heat gets turned on, drying out the air and sometimes resulting in chapped lips, bloody noses and breathing issues. You don’t want too little humidity but you also don’t want too much humidity in your home.

A warm, functional whole-home humidifier can help easily keep all of the rooms in your house comfortable. You will need to make sure you change your humidifier pad/filter and that there are no leaks. If you do have a whole-home humidifier, you should definitely consider having a team of professionals come in to ensure that your system is in perfect working condition.

Keep Your Home Cozy and Warm This Winter

The experts at Althoff Industries can help you make sure that your home’s heating system is running perfectly before the weather hits the single digits. Don’t get stuck out in the cold! Give us a call at 815-900-5002, and schedule your winter maintenance appointment today.

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Why Does My A/C Have Ice on It in the Summer?

Thursday, September 5th, 2019

There’s nothing that’ll get you more steamed than coming home to a hot house in the summer. Imagine your surprise when you go to inspect your air conditioner, and it’s covered in ice! Each summer, this is one of the most common calls we get at Althoff Industries.

Luckily, an icy air conditioner is easy to diagnose and repair. While it may seem like you’ll have an expensive repair bill coming your way, oftentimes you simply need to make a few simple changes to prevent your air conditioner from icing over. In this article, we’ll identify the causes of most frozen air conditioners, the repair process and how to prevent your air conditioner from freezing in the future.

Warning: If you notice ice building up on your air conditioner, turn off the unit immediately. To prevent additional damage from occurring, do not turn on the air conditioner until the ice has melted and you have located the cause. If you’re unsure of the issue causing your air conditioner to freeze, contact us to schedule an appointment.

Reduced Air Flow

One of the common culprits we discover when investigating frozen air conditioners is reduced air flow. Usually, this is one of the first issues we look for, since it’s one of the easiest to correct and cheaper for homeowners to repair. Reduced air flow could be caused by any of the following:

  • Dirty air filter. It’s important to inspect and replace your system’s air filter regularly. It’s a relatively inexpensive home ownership task, but you can end up with a hefty repair bill if you don’t keep up with the maintenance. When you have a dirty air filter, your system has to work extra hard to move the air through your home. This causes your air conditioner to work overtime, which may lead to ice buildup on the compressor, among other issues.
  • Too many closed air registers. You might think you’re doing yourself a favor by closing air registers and saving yourself a few dollars on your summer cooling bill. Unfortunately, when you close too many registers, you reduce the amount of airflow below the amount required to optimally run your home’s cooling system, which can cause the condenser to freeze. Make sure at least 75% of your air registers are open at all times.
  • Damaged air ducts. Depending on where they’re located, in a wall, basement or even closet, your system air ducts can take a beating when you’re moving heavy equipment or doing home repairs. If you end up damaging a duct, you can decrease the airflow.
  • Decreased fan speed. Over time, your system can get worn down, and your fan speed can decrease. On the other hand, your system’s fan speed may not have been set fast enough to begin with. If you’ve tried all other air flow repair methods without any luck, a technician can help you determine if the fan speed is freezing your air conditioner.

Faulty Thermostat

If your system is having trouble regulating the temperature, you waste money, energy, and odds are, your air conditioner is freezing over. When your system can’t properly regulate temperature, it’s running constantly, even when it’s cold out at night. As your condenser works overtime, the coils can build up condensation and eventually freeze over. If you notice your system is running even when it’s cool outside, your thermostat could be the culprit. A professional can help you test your thermostat and pinpoint the issue.

Drainage Problems

In addition to keeping your house cool, your air conditioner extracts humidity from the air to make your home’s air more comfortable. This excess moisture needs somewhere to go if it’s not in the air. Your air conditioning system should have a drainage pipe attached that carries moisture away from the unit. If this pipe becomes blocked, the water can get stuck in the unit and freeze. Ensure your system drain is clear and removing moisture efficiently.

Similar drainage problems can occur if you have a window unit that’s freezing up. To drain properly, window unit air conditioners must be tilted at a slight angle out of the window to allow water to drain. If your window unit is freezing up, ensure the air conditioner is tilted according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, and check that no debris are blocking the drainage hole. 

Low Refrigerant

You might have never have guessed, but having low refrigerant can actually make your evaporator coil freeze. Seems weird, right? If you don’t have the proper amount of refrigerant in your A/C system, it has to work harder to cool your home. When your unit is working too hard, icing is likely to occur. Typically, low refrigerant is a sign of a leak in the system. You can usually identify a leak by listening for a hissing or gurgling sound coming from the condenser. If you suspect a leak, it’s time to call a professional to help repair the leak and recharge the system with refrigerant.

Is Your Air Conditioner Putting a Freeze on Your Summer Fun?

The experts at Althoff Industries can help you identify why your air conditioner is freezing and repair the issue. Don’t let a frozen air conditioner prevent you from staying cool during the summer, give us a call at 815-900-5002, and schedule your appointment today!

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My A/C Is Running but Not Blowing Cold Air

Monday, July 1st, 2019

Summer is in full swing and, on really hot days, all you want to do when you get home from a long day is to enjoy some cool air conditioning. Nothing kills this excitement more in the warm summer months than entering your home only to realize that your A/C is not blowing cold air. Unfortunately, an A/C is not fail-proof and they can quit blowing cool air for a variety of reasons. We have listed some of these reasons below so you can have an idea of why your A/C quit working and how you can resolve the issue.

Reasons Why Your A/C is Running but Not Blowing Cold Air

1. Your Thermostat Is Set Incorrectly

Sometimes an A/C doesn’t blow cold air simply because your thermostat settings need to be adjusted. Luckily, this is a pretty easy issue to resolve on your own. Some people think that leaving their A/C running all day is the best way to keep their home cool, but it is actually best to set your fan to AUTO, this will ensure that your air conditioner is running only when it is actually cooling the air. Changing this setting will help save money on energy bills, ensure that you don’t wear out your A/C too quickly, and keep your home cool.

2. Your Air Filter Is Dirty

Having a dirty air filter can inhibit airflow which could definitely be a reason that your A/C isn’t blowing cool air. Take out your air filter and see if there is any debris. If you do notice that the air filter is dirty, swap it out for a new one and get in the habit of changing it out every month.

A great way to ensure that your air filter is clean and your A/C works all summer long, we suggest having professional regularly scheduled maintenance.

3. Your Outside Unit Is Dirty

In the same vein as point number two, having an outside unit that is covered in dirt, dust, and other debris could also be inhibiting cool air from making its way into your home.

Air conditioners work when the inside unit (called an evaporator) absorbs heat from the air and then transfers that heat to the outside unit (called the condenser). The condenser can’t properly dissipate heat if it’s dirty or crowded with debris.

You can resolve this issue by spraying the outside unit with a garden hose on a gentle setting and removing weeds and overgrowth around the unit.

4. Refrigerant Leak

Refrigerant is the liquid that absorbs the heat from the air. When you don’t have enough refrigerant, your A/C can’t absorb enough heat to cool the air. Refrigerant leaks are fairly common and can definitely be the reason why your A/C isn’t blowing cold air.

Signs you have a refrigerant leak include:

  1. Ice buildup on the outside unit and line
  2. Bubbling or hissing noises
  3. Your A/C doesn’t cool the home on hot days but works fine on cool days and at night

If you see these signs, turn off your A/C immediately and call a professional. Refrigerant chemicals are very dangerous and need to be handled by the experts.

5. Air Duct Leaks

Over time, the air ducts that move air conditioning through your home may become loose or their seal may be compromised. This means that air is escaping erratically which makes it hard to keep your home at the temperature you want. You will need to have a professional come out and evaluate your air ducts to ensure that they are not leaking cool air and make repairs as needed.

6. A Bad Compressor

The compressor is one of the most important parts of the A/C system and pushes the refrigerant through the unit. If your compressor isn’t working properly, your A/C cannot work. Compressors need to be evaluated by a professional and replaced if they appear worn out or defective. Unfortunately, compressors are expensive unless you have a warranty. Chances are if your compressor is bad, you’ll probably need to replace an entire outside unit.

7. Dirty Evaporator Coils

An evaporator coil is the part of the A/C system where the refrigerant absorbs heat. Over time, the evaporator coils get dirty and affect the performance of your A/C and make it harder to remove warm air.

Dirty evaporator coils can lead to your A/C overheating and potentially shutting off completely. Evaporator coils should be evaluated and cleaned by a professional to ensure that they are in good condition.

Schedule an Appointment and Stay Cool All Summer Long

If your A/C is not blowing cold air, contact our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians. They can help troubleshoot the problem so you can cool down and relax again. Contact us at 815-455-7000 to schedule.

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5 Air Conditioning Noises and Their Causes

Thursday, June 13th, 2019

Summertime—it’s sunshine, warm breezes, barbecues and the gentle hum of air conditioners keeping houses cool throughout the neighborhood. In a split second, that gentle hum can turn into an unnerving hissing, banging or screeching. While all air conditioners make noise, it’s important to be able to recognize which noises are normal, and which noises require a professional inspection.

1. Hissing

Uh oh! More than likely, you’ve sprung a leak. Usually, a hissing sound indicates that your air conditioner is leaking refrigerant. In some cases, there’s a small opening in one of the refrigerant lines. In others, there may be an internal valve leak.

If the hissing is really loud and accompanied by squealing or screeching from the compressor, you need to turn off your air conditioner immediately. This indicates that there is too much pressure in the compressor, which could lead to a costly repair bill if you don’t act soon.

2. Screeching

One of the most startling noises is generally one of the easiest to diagnose. In newer direct-drive A/C units, you can trace a screeching noise to a shot bearing in the fan motor. Usually, you’ll have to replace the fan motor to get the noise to stop. In older A/C units, the screech could be coming from the belt that connects the motor to the blower. Belts gradually wear down, and you need to replace them from time to time.

3. Banging

A loud banging or rattling can mean that there’s a loose part somewhere in your A/C unit. Before more damage occurs, you’ll want to shut of the air conditioner as soon as you hear the noise. Is the noise louder outside of your house or inside of it? If it’s outside, one of the fan blades could have come loose in the compressor. If the noise is louder inside, your blower fan might be causing the racket.

4. Clicking

Hearing a clicking sound when the air conditioner kicks on is common and completely normal. That click is how your thermostat communicates with the unit. However, when it’s on, your A/C shouldn’t be ticking like a clock.

Like banging noises, clicking often comes from a loose or damaged part that’s hitting against something that it normally wouldn’t. An occasional clicking noise could indicate that there’s something stuck in one of the airways. On the other hand, if the clicking is constantly coming from your thermostat, there could be an issue with the circuit board.

5. Buzzing

A couple of issues could make your air conditioning unit buzz, like a swarm of hornets building a nest in your outside unit. If you can rule out pests, the buzzing could be coming from loose parts rubbing together, or your air conditioner might have frozen up. If you see a buildup of frost and ice on the unit, a professional can help you determine the cause. Finally, listen to hear if the buzzing sound is coming from the unit’s power source. The A/C could be overloading your circuit panel, which will require a professional evaluation.

If your air conditioner is making a noise that it shouldn’t, call Althoff.

Ignoring the problem could cause damage to your unit that then requires more extensive repairs. Have one of our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians check out the sound now and get peace of mind. Contact us at 800-225-2443 to schedule.

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Can I Get a Tax Credit for Switching to Energy-Efficient Appliances?

Monday, March 18th, 2019

As of the 2018 tax year, many of the federal tax credits for upgrading to new, energy-efficient appliances have expired. In the past, you were able to collect federal tax credits for energy-efficient water heaters, air conditioners, boilers, furnaces and other in-home appliances. Now, the IRS provides these types of tax credits only for residential renewable energy products. According to Energy Star, these tax credits should remain available through December 31, 2021.

The tax credits may have expired, but in many cases it’s still a cost-effective solution to update your major in-home appliances. Depending on the age of your water heater, air conditioner or furnace, you could be wasting valuable dollars every month by powering old, inefficient appliances.

For tax year 2018, we’ll explain some of tax credits you can still qualify for if you decide to choose a renewable energy appliance for your home. We’ll also illustrate some of the cost savings you can expect if you choose to replace your old appliances with energy-efficient ones in 2019.

What appliances can I still get a tax credit for?

The U.S. government has restricted the federal tax credit to apply only to equipment that uses alternative energy. You can receive a 30% tax credit through the end of 2019. After 2019, the credit will gradually decrease until it disappears completely for the 2021 tax year. You can view the appliances available to receive the tax credit on IRS Form 5695. Examples that still qualify for the residential energy credit include:

  • Solar water heater. These water heaters convert power from the sun into an energy-efficient heat source for your water. In order to be eligible, the solar water heater must be installed at your primary residence, not a rental property. At least half of the energy generated by the water heater must come from the sun.
  • Small wind turbine. These residential-sized wind turbines convert wind energy into electricity for your home. In order to qualify, the turbine must be installed at your primary residence; the residence can be a new, existing, or second home. The turbine must have a nameplate capacity of no more than 100 kilowatts.

How do I file my tax rebate?

Filing for your tax rebate is simple, as long as you meet the requirements. According to TurboTax, “To claim the credit, you’ll need IRS Form 5695. Work out the credit amount on that form, then enter it on your 1040. You should keep your receipt for the appliance as well as the Manufacturer’s Certification Statement, so you can prove your claim if the IRS ever conducts an audit.”

Will I save money by upgrading to energy-efficient appliances?

If you’re looking for an appliance upgrade, you don’t need a tax credit to see the cost savings. If any of your appliances have been around for more than 10 years, you can expect to see considerable energy savings when you upgrade to a newer model. For example, according to Energy Star, certified gas storage water heaters are, “about eight percent more efficient than a standard model.” Energy Star certified central air conditioners not only have higher seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) and energy efficiency ratio (EER) ratings but also use about 8 percent less energy than conventional new models.

In total, Energy Star reports that, “By choosing Energy Star, a typical household can save about $575 on their energy bills and still enjoy the quality and performance they expect.”

Are you in the market to upgrade a major home appliance?

Althoff Industries specializes in recommending and replacing furnaces, boilers, air conditioners and more. Contact us today at (815) 455-7000, and we’ll help you get the process started.

Disclaimer: Althoff Industries does not provide tax, legal or accounting services. This article has been prepared for informational purposes only.

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How to Extend the Life of Your Furnace

Thursday, December 27th, 2018

Your furnace is a hard-working appliance. Like any other appliance, its parts will wear down over time. However, there are a few steps you can take to make sure your furnace lasts as long as possible.

1. Replace your furnace filter.

When is the last time you checked your furnace filter? Do you remember the last time you replaced it?

A dirty air filter is one of the most common contributors to furnace failure. A filter that is clogged with dirt, dust and dander makes it difficult for your furnace to handle air. This, in turn, causes increased wear-and-tear. Imagine trying to do a strenuous workout with a thick cloth around your mouth and nose, and you’ll get an idea of how hard it is for your furnace to work without enough air. Your furnace can even begin to overheat, increasing the risk of damage.

With regular filter maintenance, you can help your unit breathe easier and extend its life. Filters are relatively inexpensive, and they’re much cheaper than repairing or replacing your broken furnace. To help your furnace run as efficiently as possible, we recommend inspecting your furnace filter one a month and replacing it bi-monthly or as needed.

When installing your new filter, make sure you install it correctly to avoid airflow issues.

2. Check for proper airflow.

You may not be a professional furnace inspector, but there are things you can easily check to help ensure your furnace has the air it needs to operate properly.

  • Intake grills. Make sure there’s nothing blocking the air returns to your furnace, so it can operate properly.
  • Ducts. Visually inspect the ductwork for cracks, holes and gaps. Wave your hand over the joints to see if you feel any air leaking. Cool or cold air coming from the vents is another possible sign of leaking ductwork.
  • Filter Door. Make sure the air filter door is closed properly.
  • Air Vents. Walk around your house to make sure the air vents are open. If too many vents are closed, your furnace may not be able to work efficiently.

3. Get a professional furnace tune-up every fall.

Before you turn on your furnace on for the winter, it’s important to schedule a full furnace tune-up. An annual inspection can keep your furnace clean, identify worn parts, and uncover small issues before they turn into bigger repairs. A thorough furnace tune-up should help prevent the most common winter furnace repairs, like a worn and dirty ignitor and flame sensor problems.

When scheduling your appointment, keep in mind that many HVAC companies will offer an introductory tune-up for a low price. These may seem like a good bargain, but they’re often not in-depth enough to ensure your furnace is performing at its best.

For example, your furnace tune-up should always include a draft check and combustion analysis, which many of these low priced introductory tune-ups do not. The combustion process needs to be checked yearly to ensure safe operation. Gas leaks, high carbon monoxide levels, and improper drafting can be dangerous if not addressed. ALWAYS ask if these elements are included. They’re the only reliable way to assure the efficient and safe operation of your gas furnace.

While a furnace tune-up can’t 100% guarantee that your furnace won’t have any issues over the winter, it ensures you’re as prepared as you can be. Think of winter as a test—you’re better off passing if you study. A furnace tune-up is just like that.

Extend the life of your furnace with Althoff Industries.

Your furnace should last for many years with good maintenance. If you’re in the Greater Chicago area and need a furnace tune-up, inspection or repair, contact the expert technicians at Althoff Industries. Schedule your furnace service online or give us a call at (815) 455-7000.

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Why Does My Heater Make a Screeching Sound

Monday, November 26th, 2018

You finally get home after a long, chilly day. As soon as you come inside, you crank up the thermostat hoping to knock some of the chill out of your bones. But instead of being greeted with a warm, gentle breeze from the furnace, you’re startled by the sound of an earsplitting, hair-raising screech.

Your first thought is probably, “That sounds expensive.”

A screeching heater is unnerving. However, most of the time, it’s a simple fix that requires a bit of expert knowledge and skilled hands to repair. It’s not a sound that you want to turn up the TV and ignore, though—the longer your heater screeches, the more you risk costly damage.

Let’s take a look at the most common causes of a screeching or squealing heater.

Blower Motor Failure

Your furnace’s blower motor creates a lot of force—blowing enough air to warm the whole home is a tough job. While blower motors are engineered for the job, like any other machine, the parts will wear down over time with use. When this happens, these parts can literally “scream” for help—that’s the squealing or screeching noise you’re hearing.

  • First, it could be the blower motor bearings. As the lubricating oil breaks down with wear, the bearings can seize up and ultimately fail. When the bearings can’t move freely, they can emit a loud, unsettling screeching noise.
  • The screeching could be coming from the blower wheel. An out of balance blower wheel will cause noise, vibration, and over time ruin the bearings on the motor. A loud screeching sound can result from metal pieces rubbing together.

An expert furnace technician can find and fix the root cause of the blower motor problem. If you hear a screeching sound from your furnace, don’t put off the call. In many cases, a simple fix (like lubricating the motor bearings) can prevent further damage and costly repairs.

Regular furnace maintenance, like an annual tune-up, can spot potential problems with the blower motor and keep it in good repair.

Is a screeching heater keeping you up at night?

Serving the Greater Chicago area, Althoff Industries can help you rest easy knowing your home will be warm when the temperature drops. Your heater’s screeching is a cry for help—call us at 800-225-2443.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information.

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Why Is My Furnace Running but Not Blowing Hot Air?

Monday, October 29th, 2018

Your furnace clicks on and the blower motor is running, but the air coming from the vents is cold or cool instead of hot. Or maybe the air starts off hot, then turns cool before the furnace shuts down.

Let’s look at some of the solutions to this common furnace problem.

1. Check the air filter.

Has it been awhile since you changed your furnace air filter? If you use disposable air filters, we recommend checking them every month and changing them if they’re dirty.

A dirty air filter affects more than just your home’s air quality (though don’t get us wrong, that’s important). The humble air filter is at the root of many furnace problems.

A clogged, dirty air filter blocks the return air flow to the furnace, meaning:

  • There’s less air to blow out of your vents. This could account for your “cold air” feeling.
  • The furnace can overheat. The furnace is suffocating without enough air, so it has to work harder and run longer to heat your home. Imagine trying to run a marathon with a heavy cloth around your mouth and nose, and you’ll get the idea. Soot builds up on the heat exchanger over time, making it even less efficient. All this can easily cause the heat exchanger to overheat. Your furnace has safety controls that automatically shut down the burners in case of overheating. Though the hot air stops, cool or cold air will continue to blow for awhile in order to cool down the unit to safe level.

Try changing the air filter to see if this resolves your cold air problem. If that doesn’t help but you still suspect your furnace is overheating, it’s time to call in a professional HVAC technician. Repeated overheating will damage the heat exchanger and lead to a big repair bill.

2. Check the thermostat.

If you’re getting cool air instead of warm, the problem may not be your furnace at all. It may be an issue with the thermostat. Thermostats are fiddly things—plus, you never know who in the house might have done some “unauthorized adjustments.”

  • Make sure the thermostat is set to “heat” instead of “cool.” (Yes, this sounds obvious, but it’s been the cause of many a service call!)
  • If your thermostat has a fan setting, set it to “auto” instead of “on.” If it’s set to “on,” the blower fan may run continuously even when the furnace isn’t heating the air up to the set temperature.
  • Open the thermostat panel and gently blow out any dust or debris. A dirty thermostat can sometimes malfunction.
  • If your thermostat runs on batteries, try replacing them. Most thermostats run off your home’s central power with battery backup, but some run exclusively on battery power. Dying batteries can cause the thermostat to send incorrect temperature information to the furnace.
  • Ensure that the thermostat is firmly attached to the wall and none of the wires are loose or damaged.
  • Take note of the air temperature near the thermostat. A thermostat reads the temperature of the air immediately around it. Is the thermostat in a spot that is noticeably warmer than the rest of your house? The thermostat will apply that temperature to the rest of your home, which can lead to cooler air than you wanted as the thermostat tries to regulate the temperature.

If all of these things check out but you still suspect a malfunction, the thermostat may need recalibration or replacement.

3. For gas furnaces: Make sure the gas supply valve is on.

Have you had any repairs done lately? Someone may have shut off the gas supply valve to do a repair and then forgot to turn it back on. Without the gas supply, there’s nothing for your furnace to burn to create the heat. Check that the gas valve handle is inline (parallel) with the gas pipe—that means it’s on. When it’s off, the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

If this doesn’t fix the problem, and you smell gas, turn off your gas supply and call a professional right away. Gas leaks are dangerous.

4. For gas furnaces: Check the pilot ignitor, flame sensor and/or pilot light.

Problems with your pilot light can cause your gas furnace to blow cold air.

Most modern gas furnaces have an electronic pilot igniter coupled with a flame sensor rather than a physical pilot light. These can malfunction—repairing or replacing them is a job for a professional HVAC technician.

A dirty or clogged pilot ignitor can prevent the furnace from igniting properly. While working with the ignitor is a job for a pro, you can check for a dirty ignitor if you know how and feel absolutely comfortable shutting off power to your furnace, taking off the front panel, and locating the ignitor.

If you have an older gas furnace with a standing (physical) pilot light, the light can go out. This is usually the result of the gas company shutting down the gas lines for maintenance or an emergency. Once you’ve confirmed that the gas line is safely back in operation (a quick call to the gas company is a good idea), try relighting the pilot light according to the instructions for your unit. If it won’t stay lit, call a professional. There may be a problem with the thermocouple or ignition system.

5. Consider the air ducts.

Is your furnace blowing hot air in some rooms but not in others? Does it seem like the airflow is weaker than you remember? Problems with your vents or ductwork are likely to blame.

Take a look at the air vents and make sure that the dampers (the little handles on the front panel) are parallel with the ductwork. This means that that dampers are fully open and allowing for maximum airflow from your furnace.

Still getting cool air from the vents? You may have leaking ducts. Cracks, holes and gaps in your ductwork allow the hot air from your furnace to escape before it reaches the vents. Not only will you have cold spots, but leaky ductwork will run up your energy bills and pull in dust and debris that then gets circulated into your home.

Over time, ducts can actually break due to the stress of fluctuating temperatures. Insulation can break down and fall into the duct space, clogging it. If a duct has collapsed or is severely obstructed, you’ll experience a reduction in airflow. Your furnace’s heat exchanger may overheat due to the lack of air, causing the burners to shut down.

If you suspect a problem with your ductwork, contact a professional who specializes in that area.

Furnace still not blowing hot air? Call in a professional.

A furnace problem won’t fix itself. Often the initial issue is simple to fix, but can lead to complicated and costly problems if put off too long.

If you’re in the Greater Chicago area, schedule your furnace service online or give us a call at (815) 455-7000. Our licensed Chicago HVAC technicians can diagnose the problem and get it resolved fast so you’re not left in the cold.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information.

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Why Do You Need a Draft Check and Combustion Analysis?

Wednesday, October 17th, 2018

Gas fired appliances like furnaces, boilers and water heaters create gases as a byproduct of the combustion process. In order for these appliances to work safely, they must be vented properly and maintain a proper draft to make sure the gases exit your home. Gas leaks, high carbon monoxide levels, and improper drafting can all be dangerous if not addressed.

Gas fired appliances like furnaces, boilers and water heaters create gases as a byproduct of the combustion process. In order for these appliances to work safely, they must be vented properly and maintain a proper draft to make sure the gases exit your home. Gas leaks, high carbon monoxide levels, and improper drafting can all be dangerous if not addressed.

These gases are made up of oxygen, carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide. A safe burn is represented by having the correct mixture of these components. An improper mixture can mean poor performance of your system and worse a safety concern. Only by using a combustion analyzer can these be checked.

Draft and combustion should be checked every year to ensure the safe and efficient operation of your gas-fired appliances. Here’s why you should make sure your annual furnace maintenance includes these two elements.

What is a draft check and why is it important?

Draft is required to draw flue gases and carbon monoxide safely out of a living area. This is generally accomplished through a chimney or vent system.

This flue draft will occur naturally in properly installed appliances unless it is affected by some outside force. Outside forces can include an attic fan, kitchen fan, the removal of a vent cap during high winds, or even a birds nest or other animal intrusion into the chimney.

If the flue draft gets interrupted or is impeded, carbon monoxide can back up in the chimney, eventually leaking or “spilling” into the home through the draft hood.

Verifying draft and checking for spillage is an important safety consideration for your furnace. Using a draft gauge to measure draft pressure inside the flue can determine:

  • If the furnace has sufficient combustion air to operate properly
  • If the flue gases can flow freely out of the home

If improper draft is found, the cause should be remedied to protect your household from carbon monoxide and to ensure proper operation of the equipment.

What is a combustion analysis and why is it critical?

Your gas furnace is manufactured to repeatedly and automatically ignite its burners throughout the winter, maintaining a comfortable temperature in your home. To accomplish this safely and efficiently, the right amount of combustion gases must be present.

A combustion analyzer measures the amount of carbon monoxide, the amount of oxygen, and the temperature of the flue gas in your furnace. This information is important for the following reasons:

  • Safety. Levels of carbon monoxide outside of the manufacturer guidelines can be dangerous.
  • If there is an imbalance or abnormality in the measurements, it helps the technician zero in on the underlying problem. Some hidden problems are impossible to diagnose without a combustion analyzer.
  • It provides an accurate measure of the efficiency of your furnace.
  • It reveals issues related to over firing and under firing. Both cause poor performance and shortened lifespan of your equipment if not corrected.

See a draft gauge and combustion analyzer at work.

This video shows how the draft gauge and combustion analyzer work to ensure your home is safer and your furnace is operating efficiently.

https://youtu.be/MOUlOSIaLDM

Make sure your annual furnace tune-up includes a draft check and combustion analysis.

Not every HVAC company doing furnace maintenance includes a combustion analysis and draft check as part of their gas furnace tune-up package. These steps are too important to skip, so always make sure you ask if they’re included before booking.

If you’re in the Greater Chicago area, schedule your heating system tune-up with Althoff Industries. Every gas furnace tune-up we perform includes a draft check and combustion analysis. We do it because it’s the only reliable way to assure the efficient and safe operation of your gas furnace.

Contact us at (815) 455-7000 to schedule.

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Where are My Water and Gas Shut Off Valves?

Tuesday, August 14th, 2018

If you need to turn off your home’s gas or water due to a needed repair or a weather issue, first you have to know where the water and gas shut off valves are located. Ideally, you’ll want to locate the main or master shut offs, as well as the supply shut offs, before an emergency happens.

SAFETY NOTE: If you suspect a gas leak, do not try to turn off the gas to your home. Get outside, move away from the house, and then call the gas company.

If you have a water leak, your municipal water supplier may have an emergency number you can call to report it.

How to Find the Main Water Shut Off Valve

There are actually two main water cut off valves – one before the water line reaches the meter and the other on the “house side” of the water meter. These turn off the water supply to the entire home. In colder climates, both the meter and the shut off valves are located inside the house to prevent freezing. In warmer climates, the meter and the valves will either be outside the house or below ground, inside a box.

Turn off your home’s water supply: Turn the main shut off valve that’s on the house side, after the meter.

  • If it’s a lever, turn it so it’s at a right angle, or perpendicular, to the water supply line. To turn the water back on, turn the lever so it’s parallel, or in the same direction as, the supply line.
  • If the main shut off valve is a round handle like the ones on outdoor faucets, simply turn it clockwise to turn off the water (righty-tighty) and counter-clockwise to turn the water back on (lefty-loosey).

Note: You may notice two other valves outside your house, but they are only for use by the city workers. An underground curb stop valve is located between your home’s water meter and the water main in the street. There’s also a “corporation stop”, which is where the house water line and the water main meet.

How to Find the Water Supply Shut Off Valves

It’s not always necessary to shut off the main water supply. If you’re just repairing or replacing one fixture, like a faucet, you can turn off the water only to its individual supply line. Also called a supply stop, this shut off valve is usually a small metal oval or round handle located on the water line running to your toilets, water heater, dishwasher, faucets, washing machine and water softener

In some cases, you may find a t-shaped connector on the water supply line for your furnace humidifier or your refrigerator’s ice maker. Be sure to monitor these, as they’re a common source for leaks. Building codes in many areas require them to be replaced with supply stops to prevent water damage.

How to Find the Main Gas Shut Off Valve

If you have any natural gas appliances in your home, the main gas shut off valve that you’ll want to look for is usually inside, where the gas line enters the house. However, older homes may only have one shut off at the meter itself. In most cases, the meter shut off valve is only for use by the gas company, fire department or a plumbing or HVAC contractor.

When you shut off the main gas supply, keep in mind that you’ll have to relight the pilot lights in your gas appliances, unless they have an electronic ignition system. Relighting instructions can usually be found in the owner’s manual or on the appliance itself, but if you’re unsure or not comfortable with it, you can always call a professional like Althoff Industries to take care of it for you.

Turn off your home’s gas supply: The way to shut off the main gas valve depends on what type of setup your house has.

In newer homes, the gas shut off valve may look like a bright yellow lever on a black iron pipe where the gas supply line enters your house. To turn off the gas, just turn the lever perpendicular to the line, and then turn it parallel to the line to turn the gas back on.

If your home is newer and has a high-pressure gas system, the gas supply line will be a flexible copper pipe. The indoor main shut off valve can usually be found near your home’s furnace or water heater, just before the pressure regulator.

Homes that use propane will have a shut off valve on the tank as well as one on the gas line before the connection to the first appliance.

To turn off the gas in an older home that uses natural gas and doesn’t have an indoor shut off, you’ll have to use the street-side shut off valve outside on the gas meter. The valve typically looks like a small rectangle, but you’ll need a special wrench to open and close it. To turn off the gas, turn the valve perpendicular to the incoming gas line. Turn the valve parallel to the line to turn the gas back on. It may be a good idea to pick up a gas meter shut off wrench at your local home improvement store and then leave it attached to the meter in case you need it.

How to Find the Gas Supply Shut Off Valves

Every gas appliance has an individual shut off valve so you can repair or replace it without turning off the gas to your entire home. It’s typically a lever that you turn perpendicular to the line to shut off the gas; turning it parallel to the line will turn the gas back on.

The service, or supply, shut off valve for gas appliances should be located on the flexible supply line, called an appliance connector, no more than 6 feet from the appliance itself. The line may be visible for furnaces, gas fireplaces and water heaters, but gas dryers and stoves will need to be pulled away from the wall to get access to the shut off valve.

This information is provided as a general guideline. Althoff Industries does not assume any liability resulting from the provided information.

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